Tequila’s torchbearer: 10 Minutes with Julio Bermejo
Γιαννης Κοροβεσης•Articles
*Original article in greek
A brief but revealing conversation with Julio Bermejo, the creator of the iconic Tommy’s Margarita, owner of the legendary Tommy’s Mexican restaurant in San Francisco, and a leading authority in the world of tequila.
A living legend behind the bar, Julio’s contributions to the drinks industry and the way we experience tequila today are immeasurable. Anyone even remotely involved in this world has likely heard his name. I met Julio Bermejo recently in Yerevan, Armenia, during the Yerevan Cocktail Week, and we dove into a chat about the state of tequila.
From San Francisco to Armenia
I first met Julio back in 2016, when I visited his renowned restaurant in San Francisco. Nearly a decade later, in a completely different part of the world, he was exactly as I remembered—warm, sharp, and captivating, with an easy charm and a mind that cut straight to the heart of the matter.
Julio has dedicated his life to championing tequila as more than just a fleeting trend or fashionable drink. He was among the first to insist on serving only 100% agave tequila at Tommy’s—a bold stand that’s become a benchmark for quality. He shared how, in the past two years, tequila’s sales have even overtaken those of American whiskey, marking a huge shift in the global spirits scene. He recalled that when he began, fewer than 2% of drinkers chose 100% agave tequila—today, that’s almost unimaginable.
Ο Christian Bugiada με τον Julio Bermejo στο Yerevan Cocktail Week
Julio Bermejo on ”celebrity tequilas”
We also touched on the rise of celebrity tequilas. Julio was candid—at first, he didn’t get it. After all, celebrities had long been associated with whiskey, wine, vodka, but never really tequila. And while he admits these celebrity brands have helped bring tequila to new audiences, he also finds most of them underwhelming—products that lean heavily on star power rather than real craftsmanship.
Still, he doesn’t see their presence as entirely negative. If nothing else, it’s drawn fresh attention to tequila. Yet, he told me he wishes there were at least one celebrity brand he could genuinely recommend—one that put real care into the product, rather than just the label.
Julio Bermejo & Yiannis Korovesis
Additive-free tequilas
Our conversation shifted to additive-free tequilas—the ones that declare right on the bottle that they’re made without any sweeteners, colors, or other flavorings. Julio lit up at this. For him, good tequila is about simplicity: just water, yeast, and agave. Nothing else. Only then does the spirit truly taste like what it should—pure, roasted agave. “Tequila,” he said, “should taste like agave!”
He also spoke about the pressure to meet growing demand and how that can force producers to get creative—sometimes too creative. He encouraged drinkers to support respected producers who stay true to quality, even in the face of rising demand.
Tariffs on tequila?
Of course, I had to ask him about politics and the old threats of tariffs on Mexican products under Trump. Julio Bermejo admitted that this caused real worry. After all, nearly everything he serves at Tommy’s comes from Mexico. In the end, Mexican spirits were spared, but he reminded me how quickly things can change in such a volatile climate.
Tequila’s relationship with the U.S. has always been both a blessing and a curse, he said. For decades, almost all of it has gone straight to one market. That’s starting to shift. Slowly, tequila is finding its way to other corners of the world.
Julio Bermejo on tequila future
I asked him how he sees the future of tequila in the coming decade—whether it can continue to thrive while honoring its roots and staying sustainable. Julio Bermejo was optimistic. He sees tequila’s future as bright, not just in the U.S. but in other growing markets too. But he’s also mindful of the environmental toll. Tequila, after all, can only be produced and bottled in a small corner of Mexico—a uniqueness that’s part of its magic but also a challenge when it comes to carbon footprints. He thinks the real opportunity lies in other countries—making agave spirits (not tequila, of course) locally, as is already happening in places like Africa, India, and even California.
Before we wrapped up, he reminded me of what makes agave spirits truly special. Unlike most other alcohols, they’re mild stimulants, not depressants—offering a gentle lift rather than a heavy hit, when enjoyed responsibly.
My chat with Julio Bermejo at Yerevan Cocktail Week confirmed everything I’ve always believed about him—his passion, his knowledge, and his unwavering belief in tequila’s power to bring people together. And above all, he reminded me that good tequila is always about the people who make it and the honest, handcrafted journey of every single sip.
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